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Detailing your Boxster
Greetings! Give me you favorite products and tools for detailing your Boxster.
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Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax, Ultima Waterless Wash Plus, Turtle ICE Spray Wax, Porter Cable 7424XP, ... to name a few off the top of my head.
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I have a shop and we do repairs as well as elite detailing.
First watch every video you can find on YouTube. If working by hand I recommend Zaino. If you know what you are doing with a machine then Chemical Guys I recommend a random orbital over a simple rotary buffer. I have a Cyclo. For decent product from the local parts store Griots is good as well as Mothers. If you have a perfect finish and want to keep it that way and money is no object then Swissvax Zuffenhausen is the bomb. |
That is like asking:
How long is a piece of string? |
My hands.
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New first-time Porsche owner. Just washed my new baby for the first time last weekend (2000 Boxster S, 61K). I thought the lines were beautiful when I bought the car but after washing it I now really appreciate the wonderful flowing curves.
Working on brakes, filters, and plugs this weekend and if the engineering design is as good as the bodywork I think I'll be in love all over again. |
Keep that thought, they get crappy when you have to put the top in service mode, remove the front and top engine covers, put the car on jack stands and pull half of the frunk apart just to diagnose an AC problem. They are great cars but an acquired taste to service.
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Zaino for polish and leather care. Griots dual orbital, Invisible Glass, lots of high quality microfiber cloth, California duster.
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Simoniz Orbital Polisher, 10-in. Product #39-9055-6 Having never used any powered tool on my black metallic paint, I was wondering how would one properly learn how to use it? I guess I would also need to learn to strip paint sealant, clay, etc to complete the process |
Back To Black on the tires and exterior trim. 303 Fabric Guard for the top, use a micro paint roller and plastic pan for application - found in home improvement stores in the paint section. Distilled water and a microfiber cloth for touch up cleaning of paint and glass. Optima No Rinse for heavy glass and paint cleaning short of washing the car. Novus 1-2-3 for the plastic window, wind screen, tails and headlights. Lexol cleaner and conditioner for dash, console and seats. Mothers aluminum and mag polish for exhaust tip. California duster for dust removal.
Start by getting your clear coat back to spec. Dont forget to wash and clay the car before you begin paint correction. Invest in a DA and a cutting kit and then just re wax periodically. Depending on your clear coats' condition you may want to step up to the extra cut disks (sold separately) and M105 ultra cut compound but start with the mildest cut first (IE the kit linked below) and then step up the strength only if needed. PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher - Power Polishing Tools - Amazon.com http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJ69F2W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailp age_o05_s00 I also recommend the polish after cut and before wax... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H5DOIC6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailp age_o04_s00 |
Optimum No Rinse is the bomb
Harbor Freight has a DA polisher for around $50 on sale. Its a knock-off of the PortaCable The Meguiars DA Microfiber system is about as fool proof as you can get |
A few products I've come across when detailing the Porsche which I've been very impressed and happy with:
Full size Speed Master or E-Z detail brush, for cleaning all the way to the backs of the rims (even the big 8-9" deep rim barrels found on the Porsche 18" rims), bent a bit can easily get behind the wheel spokes, and not a problem cleaning around the brake calipers either. Also useful for scrubbing between the dual exhaust tips, wheel wells, under side skirts, etc. 1" round pastry brush(with plastic ferrule, not metal) to clean in various crevices and effortlessly in the wheel lug nut holes. Meguiars gold class car wash soap for lasting suds. Optimum power clean, diluted 3:1, for cleaning Porsche leather and interior surfaces seats, steering wheels, and gearshift knobs like crazy. 303 aerospace protectant for restoring old dirty brittle rubber parts to like-new. 16"x16" Microfiber towels that snag on your fingers like crazy (do the same thing when they come across a dirt particle - grab it and wrap around it and protect it from rubbing on the paint). Aquapel for a hydrophobic windshield coating that lasts for months (not days). |
Whatever the car wash on 3rd & 3rd runs through their wands works well.
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Not sure how but I forgot to mention the most useful item...a swiffer duster. One stays in the storage compartment for interior touch ups and another hangs in the garage. These are excellent for getting brake dust off your rims. Youll go through a lot of the refills, as they fill up quick using them for this task, but they work so good you wont care.
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Exterior
Rupes 21 with Meg's microfiber pads and Rupes polish or optimum. Seal it with Opticoat 2.0. Raggtop cleaner and sealer for the top. Sonax wheel cleaner for the rims, big woolie brush Adam's tire shine or optimum dressing for the tires Adams under carriage spray for the wheel wells Adams In & Out Spray for plastic trim Interior Leatherique once or twice a year - depends on how much i use the car G3 leather sealant for the seats, dash and door as long as it looks matte i am happy, i can't stand shiny leather. |
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Unscented, alcohol-free baby wipes (I prefer Huggies) work well for interior cleaning. Nothing harsh in terms of chemicals, no residue, but sometimes just lint depending on how dry the wipes get or how rough the surface is.
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The hard part is learning not to correct your paint to death. Remember correction is a repair of the surface which removes part of the clear coat. If you have all the tools and cut your paint all the time you will be on your way to the body shop in a few months. So practice on other people's car and learn the craft before you do your Porsche, get it right the first time! |
Thanks I definitely agree ........Right now I want to stay far away from paint correction but know how to do everything else. Paint correction would be something I would leave to experts...
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Paint correction is only best left to the "experts" if you are using a rotary. If you stick to a DA, a mild cutting compound and do the least possible cutting to get results then you will save yourself a fortune over what an expert will charge and get 95% of the results. If you stick to the recommendations I linked to earlier there is no chance of burning your paint or leaving swirls and the results are excellent. You tube search the name of the kit I linked and watch the instructional/demo videos before you write off paint correction as beyond your abilities.
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